Travurple

The first challenge of Monday morning was to break camp in Cahors, easier said than done. One of the tent pegs securing an awning leg was very committed to its job and did not want to be removed, it was stuck fast! So after various failed attempts, the use of numerous and various expletives over about half an hour, Rog finally resorted to digging the tent peg out of very compacted ground.

Challenge two of the day, drive to the local Intermarche for fuel, following Google maps for less than 1 mile, how hard can it be! Very, as it turned out, it was a very small road, which got narrower over a bridge, then throw in a couple of French drivers coming the other way, and not wishing to give an inch of road (sorry a centimetre – we are in France after all), but we got there, filled up and moved on.

Challenge three, drive from Cahors to Carcassonne, which included 2 road closures and the resulting diversions, which were sort of signposted, and a market in the main street of a town we were attempting to drive through. We also drove passed a signpost that declared that the Mountagne Noire road was open, we had no idea it may have been closed?? But thankfully it was open, as the sign also kindly told us that if the road had been closed the diversion was 103km. The Mountagne Noire road was a stunning, over the mountain the down into the valley at Carcassonne.

A nice campsite about 20mins walk from Carcassonne, we were here for a week.

The reason for heading to Carcassonne at this time was for a music festival, we had tickets for Rag n’ Bone Man (Google him! You may recognise “human’ or ‘Giants’) supported by ‘LP’ no…. we’d never heard of ‘them’ either, but a really good concert in the stunning amphitheatre in ‘Le Cite’ (the old bit) of Carcassonne.

Spent most of the week, walking/cycling around Carcassonne, both ‘le Cite” the old medieval bit and ‘la Bastide” the 1820’s grid, we walked to the far end of town to see the Canal du Midi. Nic had a dip in the campsite pool everyday at around 4pm, a lovely way to keep cool.

On Thursday morning we attempted to cycle to a local lake, however the road we were following soon turned in mountain bike trail, which was not for us, so we sat and had our coffee, turned around and headed back to the campsite.

On Friday, there was another impressive thunderstorm, which thankfully stopped in time for us to go back to the amphitheatre to see James Blunt, another really good concert, and tickets cheaper than they would have been in the UK. 

On Saturday, we cycled to ‘la Bastide’ to the market, lots of stalls selling everything from cheese, olives, bread, fruit & veg, fresh herbs. It is good to see local produce being sold by the producers direct to the public. Nic was in her element.

As Carcassonne was always busy and full of tourists, on Sunday morning we decided to set an alarm for 6am to see the sunrise over ‘le Cite’, the streets were empty for the first hour, wandering about we only saw a couple of other people, we sat with our early morning cuppa (made and brought from the motorhome), in the middle of ‘le Cite’ watching the changing light on the walls of the keep, then walked over the Pont Vieux to a bakery for fabulous croissant and pain au chocolate, We were back at the motorhome by 9:30am. As Sunday was another hot day, we sent the rest of the day on the campsite.

The email sent out on last week’s blog, had an issue with the photos, if you didn’t see them and would still like to visit https://travurple.com/2022/07/18/france/

Monday, as predicted was hot, but thankfully the shady pitch, a slight breeze, together with the fact that we just sat around all day, made it not to uncomfortable.

On Tuesday, it was cooler so we managed a walk along the lake side, then went to the beach for a dip in the lake. It’s a bit strange with mud underfoot, rather than sand, but the fresh water, rather than salt water makes up for it.  Overnight there was an enormous electrical storm, lots of thunder and sheet lighting. Not sure how, but Rog managed to sleep through most of it!  In the morning we could see where all the water had tracked down the hillside, under the motorhome towards the lake. The Motorhome was on the chocks, which had sunk slightly into the wet ground, but to not enough to cause any problems. 

On Wednesday, we went for a longer walk, further around the lake, as it’s a 24kms circuit we did not manage all of it.  As the camp site also had a pool it would be rude not to use it, so we went for a quick dip before heading back to the motorhome for a beer!

Thursday, we moved again and drove 2 ½ hours further south to Cahors, a pleasant campsite, 2km from the centre of the town, with good size pitches, no issues with the electric hook up, and a clean new facilities block, a 2 swimming pools and free wifi (nr reception)

Friday, the main reason for being in Cahors, a Tour de France stage was finishing in the town, so we cycled to the edge of town (to save a walk in the sun), locked our bikes to a tree and walked over the bridge to find the Tour! We were there 3 hours before the riders were expected to arrive, and it was already getting busy. All the Tour sponsors must spend tens of thousands of € at each stage finish, (today was stage 19), throwing free stuff in to the massed crowds, including hats, T-shirts, bags, sweets, key rings, pens, and even packs of soap powder!?  and every time something is thrown there was a scramble to get the free stuff! 

Thankfully we were handed a hat and a packet of biscuits each, so scrum required! and Rog caught some sweets. The promotional staff were just riding various contraptions up and down the course whipping the crowd up in to a frenzy, to scream, shout and bang the hoardings (loudly) then various parades started, including Cahors Mayor, and sponsors vehicles of all sorts, team busses, junior cyclists. – we were interested, intrigued and appalled in equal measure at the throwing of free stuff and the engagement by the masses.  We walked down the course to just beyond the 1km out sign, then back towards the finish line, to the 50m out sign, were we could see a big screen showing the riders.

When the time came for the finish it was over in a blur, the stage winner averaged 48km per hour for 188km.  We were standing about 4 rows back from the road, Nic couldn’t really see much, Rog saw the blur and managed to get a photo/video. So, we were glad to be near the big screen, as we watched the prize giving ceremonies. Then we headed slight away from the course to find a beer, no surprise that everywhere was mobbed, but it appeared to be a surprise to some of the bars that that many people would want a drink after watching the stage finish. We found a bar with a couple of free stools just outside and in the shade, where we watched the world go by while enjoying a couple of drinks.

Whilst in Cahors for the Tour we only really watched the Tour and did not see the town, so on Saturday we went back in to do the tourist highlights, the numerous towers, the Pont Valentre, the Cathedral, and a large Market, all within an easy walk of each other. The Tour had moved on apart from a few piles of hoardings, there was no evidence of the previous day’s mayhem.

Slightly bizarrely whilst sat in 36c heat, and using the free campsite Wi Fi, Rog ordered ski passes for January/February next year as there was a 52.5% discount sale !!, (spoiler alert we are going skiing & to Thailand) also started the process of applying for Thailand tourist visa for October. Now that took a while, they wanted photos of your passport, a photo (passport style), a photo of you holding your passport, copy of any stamps in your passport within the last year, proof of flights, accommodation, funds etc.  so, fingers crossed we will be issued them. 

Sunday, another lazy day around the campsite as temperatures have risen again! and chance to write on early blog.

Monday, we managed to get the air conditioning in the Motorhome “re-gassed” at Kwikfit in Tonbridge, they we not exactly ‘Kwik”, as their machine ran out of gas half way through “re-gassing” ours, and they had to start the process again. We were just glad they could do it on the day.

It gave us some time in Tonbridge for a last little bit of shopping, a few more summer clothes for both of us. 

Tuesday morning, we were booked on the 11:15 P&O sailing from Dover to Calais, and Nic’s brother’s road was going to be closed for road works, so we got up early and were on the road for 7:30. An hour & 20min drive, a 90min check in time,plus a good 30mins spare time, just in case.  In any event we arrived at French Customs (yes, they are in Dover before check in), with no queue, a quick passport stamp, then British Border Control, where we were waved straight through without stopping, and got to the check in desk at 8:53am. “would you like to go on the 9:15am, which is just boarding?” obviously “yes please” so we were in France 2 hours earlier than planned! 

We drove to Wissant, only about 20 mins from the ferry port, to an “Aire”, for the non-camping readers – a Aire is a place usually near a town/village, where you can park up overnight. The price can range from free to €10 – €15 per night, and facilities can range from nothing to everything you expect on a campsite (water, drainage, electric hook-up). The Aire at Wissant was free with drainage, and very busy.

Wissant was a nice little town on the coast and we went for a walk on the beach.

Wednesday was market day in Wissant, it appeared to be a big market for the size of the town. We enjoyed browsing round, bought fresh strawberries and mushrooms. Then we drove to Neufchatel en Bray, as we had decided to book a campsitethere for 2 nights over Bastille day (French National Day, 14 July).

On Route we visited the Abbaye de Valloires, built for the Cistercian order, but now a facility to support children with poor social skills.

On Thursday we saw some of the formalities, with the emergency services and local dignitaries laying wreaths at the war memorial. It was a hot day and they were wearing full uniforms, including helmets. As we watched one of the Emergency workers keeled over and was quickly and efficiently carried away from the ceremony by 2 colleagues. One of whom returned quickly to resume her position, fire axe in hand, next to the flag bearers.

Friday, we drove to another free Aire on the outskirts of Chartres, just a nice carpark, no facilities at all. Walked in the Chartres along the river to see the cathedral, which was large,and had an intricately carved stone choir screen.

Saturday, we drove to Chateau Chambord, an amazing Chateau, on which construction started in 1519, with possible design links to Leonardo De Vinici, it has 4 identical facades, with a double helix staircase at the centre, and 54 sq.kilometres of grounds! We stayed at the Aire (€11) in the carpark, only 200 metres from the Chateau. There was a classical music concert that evening in the court yard, we had observed what looked like the rehearsal during the day, as we toured the Chateau, then for the performance in the eveningfound a strategically placed bench so we could hear from outside!

Sunday morning, we were awoken at 6:30am by the sound ofhot air balloons being inflated the other side of the hedge we were parked against. Rog got out of bed to watch them take off, an impressive sight.

Drove a 2 ½ hours further south to just north of Limoges, to a campsite at Le Lac de Pardoux, on the banks of the lake with plenty of trees for shade, as it was projected to be 40C on Monday. Asked for a shady pitch, our allocated pitch didn’t have much shade so we ended up on a different one (one Rog had spotted earlier, when we arrived to early to check in), then the fun with the electric hook up started, the electricity bollard next to the pitch was not working, so after 3 visits back to reception, they lent us an extension cable and we managed to get power by moving the motorhome right to the edge of the pitch so the cables would reach. It is a lovely pitch with a view of the lake, lots of trees for shade in a quiet corner of the campsite, we are here until Thursday

Welcome to another delayed blog, or 2 – we have been too busy enjoying ourselves to publish blogs. So here is a catch up.

So, week 1, on Monday 20 June, still on the Isle of Man we saw more friends, for more eating and drinking.

Tuesday morning, we flew to London Gatwick with EasyJet, into a UK national rail strike, but thankfully we had no problems getting a train up to London Bridge, if anything the train journey was easier than usual with less people around.

Once at London Bridge we were welcomed with a London Underground strike, so an Uber across town was the easiest way to go. Dropped our bags at the London School of Economics – Carr Saunders student halls of residence. Less than £60 per night for the room including breakfast – extremely cheap for London. 

Then we needed to get back across the city to the O2 in Greenwich without using the tube, so a 1.5 mile walk to the river and then a Thames Clipper (boat) to North Greenwich, a nice way to see the city. At the O2 we had tickets to see “Queen and Adam Lambert”, a great show, we were on the back row, so managed loads of dancing without disturbing anyone else.

After a slightly chaotic queueing system we managed to get our pre-booked Thames Clipper back to the London Eye, followed by another 1.5mile walk to the LSE.

Wednesday, we had tickets for the War of the Worlds immersive experience, however on turning up it was clearly evident that it was not running today. A friendly chap came out and explained that months ago they had changed their schedule, however Ticket Master had not passed on the information to us, there was no other customers about, so it must have been just us that were not informed! We then booked last minute cheap tickets to Back to the Future – the Musical, which was a bit cheesy but good fun.

Thursday, after a lot of walking and a little retail therapy, we had tickets to “Hamilton”, another good musical, full of school groups.

Friday, we headed by train to Woking, followed by a little more retail therapy

On Saturday, we attend a family celebration. Good food, a little bit too much wine.

Sunday, we drove back up to Pocklington.

Week 2

Tuesday 28 June, we got the train up to Newcastle, had a stunning lunch at a restaurant called “The French Quarter”, then in the evening we saw Sandi Toksvig in her one women show “Next Slide Please” a gentle meander through what she did in lockdown, and other interesting stories. There was also some audience participation “what new skill did you learn/hobby take up?” the slightly strange answer from someone was “felting with dog hair”!! who knew you could felt with dog hair, and frankly who would want to???

Wednesday, after some retail therapy in Newcastle we got the train back to York.

We spend Thursday sorting out the Motorhome, for the next adventure.

On Friday Rog set off with his brother and mate to Morecambe, so they could cycle the “Way of the Roses”, Rog was the support crew (not cycling). The Way of the Roses is 170 miles from Morecambe, on the west coast, to Bridlington on the east coast. They did it over 3 days, thankfully with no punctures or mechanical issues, so Rog had it easy driving around in his brother’s car, eating cake and drinking coffee.

As the Way of the Roses goes through Pocklington, the team had Saturday nightat home, with a barbeque.

Sunday, was a drive to Bridlington to see the Boys finish, Fish & Chips, and drive back to Pock.

Week 3 

Monday 4 July –  Nic’s Birthday, out for lunch with both sets of parents to Deans Garden Centre, nr York, Rog had a Chicken Tikka Pasty, a little bit weird but good. 

Tuesday, more motorhome sorting.

Wednesday, drove up to Chester le Street, via Richmond for lunch with friends, to see Micheal Buble at the Chester le Street cricket ground after a 2 year covid delay, a good evening of first class musical entertainment

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Thursday, back to Pocklington.

Friday, left Pocklington for our three month trip to France and Spain, but 1^st stop was Cheshire to see Nic’s Auntie.  We had planned to leave the Motorhome at Tarvin Fishery in their car Park, which we had used before. However when we got there it had changed hands and everything was closed, so back to the drawing board, a quick drive to a pub in the village, the Farmers Arms thankfully the landlady was a fellow motorhomer and she allowed us to park in their carpark for a couple of days. 

On Sunday, after a couple of days of eating, drinking, chatting and doing a couple of jobs, we left Cheshire for Tonbridge, a longer drive than we expected as there was problems of the M25, but hey…. time we have got!

We are staying a couple of days in Tonbridge with Nic’s brother, before heading to France on Tuesday.

As we didn’t manage to publish a blog last week, so this is a catch up.

Last Monday we left Orkney, heading back towards Pocklington. We parked overnight at a forestry approved motorhome park, near Dunkeld, our first night ‘off grid’, all was good, if not very flat!

After a couple of days driving we got back to Pock, to packed up the motor home for a month. Spent the week catching up with family.

Saturday morning we got a train to Manchester, the train was really busy, as they had cancelled the two prior trains. At least York races was on so the train emptied at York, so we could get on the train.

Had to stand all the way to Manchester.

Manchester also really busy, Parklife festival, Killers, Ed Sheeran were all on in Manchester.

In Manchester we went to the cinema to see Top Gun – Marevick.

Then went to Levenshulme, to see Nic’s friend from university (for regularly readers the friend we couldn’t visit in November because of the snow). We had a lovely time catching up and enjoying a couple of good walks around the local area, including Highfield Country Park.

On Monday, Nic travelled back to Pock to be with family and Rog went to Liverpool, en route to the Isle of Man.

Tuesday, Rog visited the Dr Who exhibition at the World Museum in Liverpool, then flew to the Isle of Man.

Wednesday, Rog had lunch with old work friends.

Friday, Nic flew to the Isle of Man

Saturday, Rog took part in The Parish Walk, doing 19 miles in 4 hrs 23 minutes, only part of the whole of the 85miles of the Parish Walk.

Sunday, we met with our old house mates, which was great, an afternoon at the Bay Hotel pub and a Chinese.

Monday, packed up to move campsites, a long drive to Dunnet Bay, just east of Thurso, along the “North Coast 500”, lots of single-track road with passing places, a beautiful drive through spectacular scenery. Stopped in Tesco in Thurso to stock up again.

Arrived a Dunnet Bay Camp site and discovered we have lost another water filler cap. Water Filler Caps 2 – Rog 0. 

An exciting start to Tuesday morning, Rog was sitting in the Motorhome, and for no apparent reason the water pump started, and kept going…. A problem. Rog turned the water pump off and tried to locate the problem, which didn’t take long, the bathroom floor was covered in water. A pipe connector had failed and we needed a replacement Jubilee clip, in Jubilee week!

So off to Thurso to try and solve our problems, after 4 shops we found a jubilee clip which might fit, it didn’t, after 2 more shops and having to buy a pack of 16 jubilee clips containing 8 different sized clips, one fitted. 

The water filler cap was easier, a temporary replacement fuel cap from the first garage we went to. 

Whilst in Thurso we had coffee and went to the North Coast museum, which included an interesting exhibition about Dounreay Nuclear Research facility. As we left Thurso we saw Seals in the estuary, basking on the rocks as the tide was going out.

Then back to the campsite for a walk along part of the 2 mile long Dunnet Bay beach, barefoot in the surf, a little chilly but refreshing.

Wednesday, Coffee and another walk in Thurso, before getting the ferry to Stromness, Orkney, and checking in to the Point of Ness campsite – a stunning site on the end of the harbour. We then spent the next 4 days doing all the history Orkney has to offer.

Thursday, we went to ‘Skara Brae’, a 5,000 year old village. The 5,000 is just mind boggling (Stonehenge is only 4,000 yrs. old, the Great Pyramids are 4,600 yrs.),

then we drove to the ‘Ring of Brodgar’, a large circle of standing stones,

then on to the village of Finstown, where we spoke to the owner of a craft shop about being at the Queen’s coronation outside Buckingham palace, on her father’s shoulders. She was feeling quite emotional after just watching the crowds gather in the Mall for the Platinum Jubilee Fly past.

On Friday, we had booked tickets to see the “Broch of Gurness”, we had no idea what a Broch was, or where Gurness was, it turns out that a Broch is a cylindrical tower at the centre of a village and Gurness is on the east coast of Orkney. Another interesting site.

We then continued to drive around the island, up to Birsay, where Rog walked over the short causeway, which was still just under water as the tide receded, to the Burgh of Birsay. We looked around a ruined palace of Birsay, and drove on to Lord Kitchener’s monument, yes Kitchener of the “your country needs you” world war I recruitment posters, who died when the ship taking him to Russia hit a mine, it sank killing 600+ men of the coast of Orkney.

Saturday, we went to Kirkwall, the largest town on Orkney, it’s not that big, to see the Bishop & Earl’s Palaces, then across the Churchill Barriers, coast defences to protect Scapa Flow, to see the Italian Chapel, which was built from 2 Nissan huts and painted by Italian prisoners of war, whilst they also built the Churchill barriers. Nic’s Great Grandfather had been in the Navy, stationed up in Scapa flow, helping to protect the Atlantic convoys, so fascinating to see all these years later.

We then had lunch in the Murray Arms Hotel in St Margaret Hope, on the island of South Ronaldsay, which is connected to main land Orkney by the Barriers. Whilst heading back to the campsite we called at the visitors centre for Maeshowe on the off chance we could get tickets for the tour of Maeshowe, as these were the only tickets we had not been able to book on line as it had only just opened again after Covid restrictions. We were in luck as tour group booking of 16 had only 8 turn up, so we got tickets. Maeshowe is a 4,300 yrs. old tomb, which has Viking graffiti in it, but only Viking graffiti from 1125 – 75 as the tomb was then backfilled and only excavated again in the early 1900. Other sites had graffiti scratched into their stones from the 1800’s, now these sites are protected by law against further graffiti.

Sunday, we got the bikes out, to cycle to Unstan Tomb, recommended by the guides at Maeshowe, Unstan is a 5,000 year old tomb which can be visited by anyone, no ticket required the entrance just has an unlocked gate. As the cycling was going well, we continue to the Standing Stones of Stenness, the Barn House Village (right next door) past the Ring of Brodgar again and back to the camp site, 17 miles in all.

The tickets this week for the “Historic Scotland” sites were free due to our Manx National Heritage membership (we only needed to pay £3.50 each for the Italian Chapel).

Orkney is a stunning place, very open landscape, as there are not many trees, lots of history to see, we are sure the glorious weather helped, but we would highly recommend Orkney, (and we only did the mainland and connected islands).

So “Grannie’s Heilan’ Hame Holiday Park” Campsite appeared to be everything advertised, an entertainment complex, which we didn’t frequent, so sorry no photos. Lots of static caravans, with a wide variety of cars parked outside them ranging from ones that didn’t look they’d make it back home to ones that obviously cost more than a couple of the static caravans.

The weather was not great, but we were lucky with a couple of sunny intervals, on Monday we walked along Embo beach, the campsite sits right on the beach.

On Tuesday we walked south to Dornoch again along the beach, stunning white sands, lots of beautiful sea shells and hardly another soul there. We did speak to a woman, who was also motor homing, and her husband was cycling from Lands End to John O’Groats, so she was walking the beach before meeting him, on day 19 of his adventure, not fast but he was out there doing it.

We left the beach via the Royal Dornoch golf club, “golf since 1606” a manicured course. A few spots of rain started, but we found a food shack, the local fish dishes smelt wonderful, but it was only coffee time, so one coffee and one hot chocolate. The only problem was they didn’t have any cake! Dornoch is a well serviced village, with a nice local high street. Then we headed back to the campsite via the woods, where we found the Dornoch Fairy village, tucked away just off the footpath (see photo), then on to the old railway line, which led straight back to the campsite, a fabulous walk. Just as we got back to the motorhome it started to rain again, our timing could not have been better!

5 weeks on the road today, having started out on 19 April.

Wednesday, a day on the move again, first stop, the post office in Dornoch, to post some stuff off. Then following google maps across country, along single track roads with passing places. All was going well with a good line of sight up the road, you could see cars coming and passed using the passing places, until a blind bend and a large truck not wanting to stop on the small bridge he was on his way over, so obviously he kept coming. So, Rog (thankfully Rog), had to reverse the motorhome back around the blind bend, luckily there was a driveway just around the bend, and the truck was able to get by and the need for new underwear was averted 

Stopped to make coffee, the joys of the motorhome, you carry your own coffee! We stopped just outside the village of Rosehall in a carpark in the forest. There was a community built log cabin, full of information about the local area and wildlife, it also had a book swap, so Nic picked up Joanna Lumley’s autobiography. 

Our next campsite is “The Shore” at Achmelvich, which is in the far north west of Scotland, only about 35 miles (as the crow gets blown) from Cape Wrath, the most north-westerly point of the mainland.

One more reversing manoeuvre as two cars were coming in the opposite direction, which was fine, arrived on site and it is basically a field with a loo block in a very small valley right near the sea. So you pick your own pitch, we managed to get a reasonably flat pitch, decided to park nose end facing the sea and into the wind, which was a good call, the wind had been building all day!

Thursday, there is a saying on the Isle of Man, “if you don’t like the weather, wait 5 minutes and there will be some different weather”, but we have never seen the weather change as quickly as it has done here, the wind is always there, but rain then sun then hail all in 5 minutes, or rain is lashing one side of the motorhome but sun streaming in through the other window. We managed to get out for a couple of short walks, the next bay is Achmelvich bay another stunning beach, so I’m running out of superlatives to describe beaches, all we can say is if you like beaches with nobody else on them (and you don’t mind weather) come to Scotland you will not be disappointed.

The other thing the site has is a Fish & Chip shop, when we say shop, it sells Fish & Chips, out of a door way on the side of the house, good fish & chips at that. 

Saturday, there was more showers with sunny intervals, we managed a walk/scramble up out of the valley, over the headland to a “hermitage castle”, a small rustic concrete cast building, which looked like it had been used recently, there was a pair of boots just inside the ‘door’ and what looked like bed.

We also spent a lot of time people watching from the motorhome, all the comings and goings on the site. Victoria Wood would have had a field day and written a sitcom about camping ala “Dinner Ladies”, what with the moving of motorhome, to four different locations on site before choosing one, then realising for their final chosen pitch, their electric cable is not long enough to reach a socket, so have to move the motorhome again, then trying to get it level (this is not a level site!), then remembering they should have filled with fresh water before pitching up so moving the motorhome again! (we’ve all done it).

Then working out if they can move the picnic bench from the other side of the site to in front of their pitch? Is someone already using it? Can they carry it ?

Hours of fun !

Saturday, we headed for a walk north along the coastal path, passing a couple of crofts, stood and watched 2 deer at fairly close quarters, then walked on to the remains of an old water mill at “Alltan na Bradhan”, sat and enjoyed our coffees, with not a soul in site. We headed back towards the campsite and saw the deer again further up the valley.

After lunch we headed up the southern headland at the campsite, a bit of a scramble over rocks and trying to avoid the boggy bits, but was well worth the climb, a stunning view along the coast and a bonus 4G phone signal (not one on the campsite).

Back at the motorhome, we managed to be very British, sitting outside with a drink, it was windy and cold, we were both wearing at least 4 layers, hat and gloves, but we were sitting outside!

Sunday, given the patchy weather, we walked the beach and local headlands again, managing to dodge the showers.

This week we are meeting friends who have rented a flat in the centre of Inverness, overlooking the river. So, Monday we had a very wet walk across town to collect a hire car, so we can drive around together (as the motorhome only has 2 belted seats).

Unfortunately, our friends got delayed on a train bus replacement, which meant we had time to do some shopping for us and them, before collecting them at the train station. Nic had another kitchen to play in at their flat, and given their delays, Nic cooked for us. 

Tuesday, we had a walk around inverness including a local art gallery. We booked a Loch Ness cruise, but received a phone call from the Cruise company a couple of hours before the schedule departure time, to let us know that their boat was broke! however we just moved the booking to Wednesday. We had beer and pizza at a Black Isle pub (the only other Black Isle pub was the one we went to in Fort William).

Wednesday morning, friends asked for some help sorting out some stuff online, then we went off for the Loch Ness cruise, a couple of hours down the loch as far as Urquhart castle. It was nice to see from the water as we had visited it last week, thankfully the weather was OK, a little windy but dry.

We had dinner at the River House, a fish restaurant next to the flat, which was fabulous. Rog was brave and had oysters! The fact that it displayed a notice to say fully booked confirmed it’s good reputation, and did not appear to stop people calling in to try and get a table.

Thursday, our friends wanted to visit Orkney, so they booked the tour from John O’Groats, and we were all up for a 5:30amstart for the 2.5-hour drive to John O’Groats. We didn’t join them of the Orkney tour, as we have booked to take the motorhome over later in the trip, (watch this space for the tales of that coming soon).

We drove along the north coast, through Thurso. Nic spotted a place on Google Maps called Puffin Cove, so after making a huge assumption that we might see Puffins we set off for Puffin Cove, a very small carpark/layby then a short , if steep, walk and we were not disappointed we saw lots of Puffins. They were going in and out of burrows, on what was a well used nesting site, some were taking off and fishing in the bay below.

Next we drove on as far as Strathy beach, which was lovely, with hardly anyone else around, blue sea, white sands, we could have been in the Caribbean.

Heading back east to John O’Groats, we stopped in Thurso for coffee. Then met our friends off the ferry, a quick bite to eat at the Village Inn, Keiss, then the 2.5hr drive back to Inverness, we were back to the Motorhome at 10:30pm, a long day.

Friday the Girls went to see Downton Abbey the Movie, the Boys, after Rog dropped the hire car off, decided to go back to the Black Isle pub, to sample some beer and whiskey, then we all finished the day off with a few more drinks back at the flat and a Thai take-away.

Saturday, our friends left for their respective new adventures in the morning, we stayed on with tickets to a tribute acts festival at the Ironworks in Inverness. On the bill was Abba, Oasis, the Beatles and Queen from 3pm until 10pm.  The doors didn’t open until about 3:20pm, then we were searched by security on the way in …. Scottish crowds must be good! and later they didn’t disappoint, there were some people having a VERY good time!

Music started with a guy singing Motown classics to a backing track (i.e. Karaoke style), he was good, after a 45 min break he was followed by the Oasis tribute, which was OK, but we were more Blur fans in the Britpop days.  Another 45 mins break then Abba were on, they were very good, obviously doing all the well known tunes. The Beatles were cancelled and Queen were not going to be on stage until 9pm. As we’d been there since 3pm (with no seating), and next month we are going to see Queen & Adam Lambert at the O2, we decided to head home early. 

Sunday, we packed up the motorhome for another move, drove north from inverness and visited some of Rog’s family who moved to the highlands a few years ago, had tea/coffee and cake. Then drove on to our next site “Grannie’s Heilan’ Hame Holiday Park”, not our usual type of site, this one has hundreds of static homes and an “entertainment” complex. But it is right on the beach.

Monday, was a wet day, however we did manage a short walk around Pitlochry in the afternoon without getting wet!

Tuesday, we left Pitlochry, heading for Fort William, but we decided to drive the longer route via Perth and Glen Coe, which is such a stunning road to drive, with remote mountain views, that we cannot capture on camera. Our camp site was at Glen Nevis, just past the Ben Nevis visitors centre, where everyone starts the Ben Nevis climb. The campsite is another one that you do not need to ‘check in’, as they email you a pitch number, so you just turn up and drive straight to your pitch.

The weather forecast for the next few days was not great, and definitely not good for an enjoyable attempt at Ben Nevis (50mph gusts and up to 5cm of snow on the summit), so Rog decided it was not going to happen, however the weather did not appear to stop lots of people setting off. 

The weather also put paid to a fair weather walk out from Corrour train station, UK’s most remote station, it is 17 miles of gravel track to the nearest public road, or 25 miles back to Fort William via a very boggy path including fords to cross, so given recent weather and the forecast this was not going to happen on this visit – call Rog a fair weather walker, but if it’s not going to be enjoyable why do it!

So, Wednesday, we walked the couple of miles in to Fort William, had a little wander through the high street, then got the train from Fort William to Mallaig, you can do the Jacobite Stream train at the bargain price of £52 per person, or like us you can pay £11 each for the normal Scotrail train which does exactly the same journey, and you get to see the stream train at either end. The route has been voted one of the most scenic rail journeys in the world, which also includes crossing the Glenfinnan viaduct, used in the Harry Potter films.

We went to the Bakehouse in Mallaig and shared a stunning Sausage roll, chocolate Brownie and cinnamon roll, had a drink in the West Highland Hotel, for old time sake, we stayed there last time we were in Mallaig.

We then got the train back to Fort William, had good beer and great pizza at the Black Isle Bar, before going to the cinema to see the new Marvel film “Dr Strange and the Multiverse of Madness”.

Thursday was a very wet day, we didn’t leave the campsite, but you could still see the beginning for the Ben Nevis path with hardy souls heading up!

Friday, another wet morning, but it did brighten up in the afternoon, so we headed out for a circular walk from the campsite, which does a lower part of the Ben Nevis path. We spoke to a group of walkers coming down, who had not summited, because the weather was so bad and they had not enjoyed their day, so we probably made the right call.

Saturday, we packed up and headed off to Inverness, driving the length of the “Great Glen” stopping at Urquhart Castle on the banks of Loch Ness, another entrance fee covered by our Manx Heritage passes. No sign of Nessie.

Pitched up at the campsite on the outskirts of Inverness, next to the Caledonian Canal, and walked in to the City Centre. Nic was on the hunt for some good sourdough bread, which we found!

Sunday, started as a lovely sunny day, sitting outside the motorhome in the sun was really warm. So, we decided to cycle down the Caledonian Canal to the sea lock, the sun was still out, but a bitter wind had kicked up, so headed back to the campsite cycling beside the river. Also managed a walk in the opposite direction up the Canal, before the rain started.

Monday, we packed our coffees and headed out, from the Orchard House campsite, to walk part of the River Ayr walk. Which was made slightly trickier as part of it was closed due to a landslip. However, we did manage to walk to the Failford Gorge. Luckily, we had checked to see if the local pub was open, and because it was a Monday it was closed, no consideration given to the fact it was bank holiday Monday. This is now the third pub in Scotland we have tried to frequent that has been closed.

Also, Amazon prime came through and delivered the new water filler cap!

Tuesday morning, we packed up and left Orchard House campsite, heading back into Ayr then up the coast, via an Aldi. To an open pub! Lunch at the Boarding House in Howwood (no typo it does have two ‘W’s in the middle of Howwood – which is a bit weird).

We then drove over the Erskine bridge up the side of loch Lomond, had a very close shave with a very large lorry on a sharp bend of a very small road, before arriving at our next campsite in Killin. Maragowan campsite is a Caravan and Motorhome Club site, on the bank of the Lochay river, very near Loch Tay. Got a nice pitch for the motorhome in a quiet corner of the site. 

Wednesday, we walked along the side of Loch Tay, via the ruins of Finlarig Castle then the old railway line back in to Killin and the Dochart Falls.

Thursday, as Rog is doing the Parish Walk in about 6 weeks, he decided he should do a “training” walk, a quiet road up and down Boreland Valley, or was Rog avoiding the Laundry that Nic was doing?!

Then we did head out for a walk after lunch near the loch and around Killin.

Decided to try put out the sun canopy out for the first time, partly to give some space to dry towels in the drizzly weather! The canopy came out OK, then we looked at the weather forecast for the next couple of days and, after a few hours, decided to take it down again – possible high winds.

Friday, we both walked the Boreland Valley route that Rog had discovered, before heading out for lunch at the Falls of Dochart inn, a ‘few’ drinks and lovely meal, Rog had Venison burger and Nic had hot smoked salmon sandwich, from their own smoke house. We bought more smoked salmon supplies to take away as it was so good. In conversation with the shop staff, it became apparent that everyone is struggling to recruit and keep staff, making running a business a challenge, maybe this explains all the other closed pubs we have encountered.

Saturday, be broke camp again and headed to Pitlochry, up the side of Loch Tay, google maps were convinced that the road was closed, but after talking to a local in Kenmore at a coffee stop, they confirmed the road had been closed, “for patching”, but had to be reopened because of the polling day 2 days before, and they were not convinced whether or not it would be closed again the following Monday! Thankfully it was open that day allowing us to avoid what would have been either, very small roads or a long detour. Unfortunately on the road which should have been closed we passed an accident (a car & a tree), which had only just happened, thankfully there were already a lot of people involved, and the best thing we could do was keep driving and not block the road for the approaching emergency services, who passed us a couple of minutes further up the road. 

Once we got to Pitlochry, we located our pitch, it was booked online, we had an email with a pitch number, so turned up and parked on the pitch, not having spoken to anyone at the site. Easy! We then went for a walk in to Pitlochry village, after visiting various outdoor clothing shops and handing over a credit card a few times, we took our purchases (a jacket, two pair of trousers and two fleeces) back to the motorhome., via the Pitochry dam and fish ladder.

Sunday, we headed out reasonably early (for us) as the weather forecast later in the day had been a bit gloomy. We walked to Faskally forest and Dunmore loch, a good walk on a mix of woodland uneven paths and some which has been designed for better access. Visited the Dam visitors centre on the way back to the site, to read about the construction of Hydroelectric plants around Scotland, mainly in the 1950’s. Renewable energy – a very current topic. The forecasted gloomy weather never arrived.